userhead anonymous
Replies (9)
  • You Reply: Update after a year of frustration on Code 10. i HAVE FOUND THE SOLUTION!!! (tested on Windows 10 LTSB).

    1) install the driver
    2) copy the .txt file in system32
    3) refresh and done! ... roblem.rar
  • You Reply: ...this is rev. 1 ....the jumper wire is a little flexible and its loosing contact. With rev. 1.1, I'm using the legs of a LED light (much thinner and they are square so the won't bend) and they work great! Make sure that the legs have a sharp edge in order to "catch" on the solder behind the switch , plus make sure that they do not get in contact with the body of the switch....voila!
    LattePanda wrote: ↑Tue May 29, 2018 11:02 am wow, sounds nice!
    Would mind show the picture of it?

    I had the 1.8v bios version. It also works with an old GQ-4X rev.1.3 programmer ( I had to buy a cheap 1.8v adapter). Change the device offset to 000000H, choose a GD device ID (there is only one on the device list that gives you an error but that doesn't matter) and make sure the IC clip/clamp on cable is seated properly on the bios chip (this is the hard part, I had to pry the connections a little in order to seat properly on the chip). My latte is alive again!
  • You Reply: Here it is

    I found that jumper wires are a little flexible and they end up not touching the solder at the back of the button.Another solution (which I'm working on it) is to cut some resistor or capacitor wires (which are thinner) and glue these on.
  • You Reply: it is a crucial detail, but do you update the bios with the HDMI cable on? Cause I have tried to update it with the display kit on (no connection to a display through hdmi) and I couldn't see anything on the 7'' display.Thinking that nothing happens I pulled the plug and now I have a corrupted bios. So, do you update only with the hdmi cable on?
  • You Reply: guys, I'm a genius! get two prototype breadboard wires (the ones with the solid pin head) and barely touch the two points behind the ON switch (the two points were everybody is soldering their wires)....while you have it touching the solder point, get a super glue and quickly dab a little glue on the edge of the ethernet port to secure the the same on the other wire and voila! the least invasive method of having an external switch!!!
  • You Reply: I had the dreaded code 10 for many days...... What I did to fix it was to download and install the BIOS (you need one usb stick), download the official x64 windows image from the website, install it (second usb stick) then it was fine for couple of days, then the board automatically updated windows to anniversary edition and had "no internet" errors without the code 10 in device manager. All I did was to revert back to 102.10 driver (from 102.19) and everything works flawlessly now with no wifi errors! I was about to RMA the board....don't do it yet...just install the BIOS again and the image one more time and see if that helps....

    A simple search on the internet reveals plenty more devices with this particular broadcom chip with the same code 10 errors. Everybody fixed their problems by reverting back to 102.10 wifi driver.
  • You Reply: Problem is back! Windows has updated to anniversary edition (1067). I don't get a code 10 in device manager.Only an exclamation mark on the wifi icon saying 'no internet'. I don't have to uninstall the driver though. A simple restart fixes the problem now.
    LattePanda wrote:Wish you luck. And normally, we suggest you don't update the driver for it. If you did ,you can try uninstall it with check the "delete the driver file".And you can find the whole LP driver above ,in the Forum rules
    EDIT: I have downgraded the driver. Apparently the driver that I had was 102.19.I have downgraded to 102.10 and everything is fine now!
  • You Reply: crappy wifi chipset!..........what is going on? Any updates on this? I have reinstalled windows so many times and the wifi worked for one hour and then code 10 again.....